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Mr. Schuyler visited Khokand in company with a retired Russian officer, who was making a business trip into that province. They traversed a considerable part of Khokand, in pursuit of the Khan of the province, Seid Mohammed Khudayar. Subordinate officials did all they could to obstruct them in finding him, but did not prevent them from getting much interesting information regarding the habits and customs of the people in the various towns. In Utch-kurgan, for instance, where they spent several days, they found life extremely dull. Amusement there was none; all games being strictly forbidden. Even of praying there was very little. Occasionally at afternoon or at sunset some few over-piously disposed individuals would spread out their rugs, and make a supplication to Allah; but the most of the praying that was done seemed to be by proxy. One old man whom Mr. Schuyler noticed, seemed to be constantly at it, and on inquiry about him, he was told that he was an iskatchi -- a person who gets his living by taking on himself the sins of the dead, and thenceforth devoting his life to prayer for their souls, performing the same function as the sin-eater of the Welsh border.
When Mr. Schuyler finally succeeded in getting an audience of the Khan of Khokand, it was very brief and unsatisfactory. He describes him as "astout, pleasant-looking man, of about forty-five, with a brown beard." The passport which he obtained from him was written in Persian, and read as follows: "To all Hakims, all Commandants of Forts, all Beks, all Amlakdars, and all Serdars: By this order be it known that one Russian-American envoy, with his people, travels in our country for amusement, tomasha, and pleasant pastime; therefore to this Russian, in every Vilayet and Kishlack where he may go, let nothing be done against the hospitality which is due to our guest, or against his wish, and let the hospitality be shown which is due to him, looking at him (considering his position) and let masquerades not be made of him, and let improper words not be spoken to him."
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Vambery - England in the Orient
Foreign retirees in Manchuria
Japanese priest crosses desert to Tibet
An early traveler in Egypt
First Japanese Buddhist Temple in America
Waiting in Ulaan Baatar
Central Asia after the battle at Penjdeh
Underground City near Bokhara
Central Asia
Central Asia
Bokhara
