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HUNGARIAN GYPSY MUSIC

In search of the real gypsies of Hungary


   Hungarian gypsy music - In search of the real gypsies of Hungary

Hungarian gypsy music - In search of the real gypsies of Hungary

Coming to Budapest and Hungary to listen to gypsy music has been a tradition since the 19th century. Gypsies are just somehow associated with Hungary and vice versa. Remember the gypsy don in the movie "Usual suspect" where Kevin Tracey plays the Turkish-Hungarian don called Kaiser Sorge.

Below is a description coming from a woman called Elizabeth Robins Pennell who travelled to Budapest, Hungary towards the end of the 19th century in search of the gypsies (gipsies, as she spells the word). After they have been around for some time not finding any "real" gypsies, they come across this little tavern with gypsy music:


Racz Pal was leading-there was a different leader every night. He was one of the thirty-three sons of the more famous gipsy of the same name who had fought for his country, and had been an exile with Kossuth, Pulszky, Teleky and all the other patriots of 1848. His name was known from one end of Hungary to the other, and to his funeral but a few years since, great magnates had gone as to that of a prince.

The entire width of the court separated our table from the musicians, but we had not been in the room five minutes before Racz Pal knew as well as we ourselves that we felt his music, that it had struck a responsive chord. The gypsies for so many generations have swayed the souls of men with their violins, that now they can tell by instinct when their charm has worked. He watched us as we sat there, mostly silent; one does not care to talk when the gypsies are really playing. When he came with the plate, which he did soon enough, he asked what he must play for us. For the first time I wished to speak in the old way to the gipsy. It was almost unconsciously, almost as if it were the one natural thing to do, that I said a word or two of Romany. He answered in far better English as he stood there, plate extended, correct and dignified. But when he went back among the oleanders and took up his violin, he played only the Czárdás, the waltzes, and the overtures to which we had listened in the stifling Mannerchor or on the airy hill at Belmont. Then, at times, I had dreamed dreams of Hungary; but now it was in the past I lived. We are young only once. Had I had a little of the Hungarian simplicity I too could have put my head down and cried for my lost youth and its romance.


The music stopped only when now and then Racz Pal came to ask what next his violin must sing for us. And every great joy of that long-lost summer sprang into life again as they played; my heart was breaking with its every sorrow. There was the scent of dried rose-leaves in their music, the windings of the river in the moonlight, the voice of love.

I think the diners must have gone without my knowing it, for the waiters began putting out the lights here and there, until all the court was in darkness except in our corner. But still the gypsies played.

Presently Racz Pal, always playing, came slowly through the darkness to my side, his violin close to my ear, its every note thrilling me with pain that was almost unendurable in its sweetness. One by one the others, always playing, crept down until all stood around us among the shadows. I do not know whether we gave them more money; I do not think they knew either. But they played on and on, exulting in their power. Was it with tears my cheeks were wet, I wonder? Was there really some one opposite with head bent low, his clenched fists heating the table, singing like mad? And who was sober enough to push back his chair and break the charm? Not I: the violin was too sweet in my ear. And these wild creatures, with flaming eyes and faces aglow, who kissed my hands, were they the musicians who had seemed so cold and passionless as they sat among the palms and oleanders?

When we came to our senses the next morning in the sunlight that was pouring in hot cheerfulness on the hills of Buda, and while the only music was the puffing and whistling of the little steamboats across the Danube, and it was possible to think as well as feel, we decided that it was worth waiting three weeks for one such night of beauty, and that if Racz Pal and the others had only worn curls and silver buttons, and had been playing like that in their camp by quiet stream or in lonely woodland, and we had come upon them by chance, why then our ideal had been realized, our quest over.






Images from the past - Gypsies
Albanian gipsies
Was John Bunyan a gipsy
A Gipsy Woman and the Deserter
Around the world on a bicycle

   Hungarian gypsy music - In search of the real gypsies of Hungary

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