In June I left Bexar for the city of Austin, at that time the seat of government, taking the old Nacogdoches road to the San Marcos. About 5 miles above Bexar we reached the springs, or the head waters of the San Antonio river. Their level is considerably raised by an embankment in order to enable the gardens in Bexar and the lands about the city to be irrigated. We crossed the country to the Salado, a small stream, and stopped the first night at some water-holes in the bed of the Cibolo, a river which is said to sink in its course, and which a few days before and only a few miles to the S., I had seen running as a clear stream. The next day we crossed the Guadaloupe, a broad, clear, and swift river, running over a hard white limestone bed, a great portion of which it did not at this time occupy. On its banks were some remarkably large pecan trees. From hence to the River San Marcos is an usually picturesque prairie, bounded on the W. by a low ridge of hills. The first branch of the San Marcos river, which we crossed, rises in a wood of oaks from the bottom of a lofty limestone hill, and soon becomes an important stream, so rapid and clear, that though it appeared perfectly shallow we could barely ford it. About a mile further on is the Rio Blanco, which runs over a white sandy bed and joins the San Marcos. Passing Plumb creek we stopped the third night at Manjack's spring, a fountain bubbling from a white-limestone rock. The next day we crossed Onion creek and turned off to Barton's springs, where the water flowing from below fills a natural basin 14 feet deep at the edge. There was a settlement here, and there were others between it and Austin. We descended a hill to the Colorado: at the bottom was a field of maize-corn, the plants being of luxuriant growth and some feet above us as we rode by them. We forded the river, and at a short distance arrived at the city of Austin.

This route was not free from danger: when returning by it to Bexar two men were shot by some Towaccanie Indians a short distance from us, one of whom was killed. On coming by it a second time to Austin, we surprised and drove off two Indians following one of our small party, who had separated himself from us in chasing some game.

The city of Austin lies on the left bank of the Colorado, on ground inclining to the river and at the base of some low hills. It is well laid out, and contains some excellent frame-built houses. On a hill to the W. of the main street, which runs direct to the river, is the Hall of the Legislature, inclosed by a stockade, and on a hill, on the opposite side, is the President's house. The public offices are a series of detached log-cabins on both sides of the main street. The city is on the extreme north-western frontier, and, though hardly established two years, presented a very flourishing appearance. It had greatly contributed to the protection of the eastern country, and had caused a large tract of land to be settled. I do not believe the statement that the Colorado is navigable from the sea to this point. The stone found here is not suited for building: it is a fine-grained white limestone of a very brittle nature.

At Austin I found an expedition on the point of starting for Santa Fe. I was not informed that "its object was to assert a jurisdiction" over a part of New Mexico, nor was this information communicated to the merchants who joined it, many of whom "ventured their all" in the expectation of being able to trade at Santa Fe. It was represented to be a purely mercantile enterprise, of which assurances of a friendly reception had been received, and this was the general opinion entertained of it. This representation was not improbable, for Mexican commissioners were in the country communicating with the government, and Mexican traders had long been received and protected at San Antonio. I was asked by the President, General Lamar, to join the party "as an invited guest, without being subject to military orders," and I accepted the proposal.

The expedition consisted of 304 men divided into six mounted companies, and with the exception of two companies of about ninety men, the arms of all were private property. There were fourteen waggons laden with the goods of merchants, six waggons of the military companies, and two carrying the baggage of the staff and of the civilians. These were drawn by six or seven pair of oxen. There was one field-piece drawn by mules. The supplies for the maintenance of the party consisted of coffee, sugar, salt, dried beef, and a herd of about seventy cattle. The omission of some barrels of flour was an injudicious economy.

Previous   Next

Back to main page

Adapted from Thomas Falconer
"Notes on a Journey through Texas and New Mexico, in the Years 1841 and 1842"