Logoi.com A TRIP FROM KIUKIANG TO THE LUSHAN HILLS 3


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A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills 3
Report of a journey through the Jiujiang area 2


   A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills

photo of modern-day Lushan

9th November. There was no sign of a change in the weather when we retired to rest last eight. This morning the outlook was gloomy and rain threatened. We left Kuei Tsung at 8 a.m., the priests coming to say good-bye and accompanying us to the gate, their friendliness apparent to the last. We had been about half-an-hour on the road when the rain came down and continued without a break until we reached Tang Yuan at 1 p.m.

The country traversed is pretty and would have been still more so if we bad been spared the wet. We put up at the only inn to be found in Tung Yuan and according to our original plan should have spent the night there. Against the guest rooms I had been warned before leaving Kiukiang, and there was no other alternative but to sleep in the open. This was impossible, considering the intense cold which succeeded the heavy rain. Near the inn was the Yamen of an official, to whom we sent our cards and enquired whether he could give us a small room. The reply was that he himself was short of room, and we were able later on to assure ourselves that this statement was perfectly true. Steps had to be taken to find another place for the night.

On our arrival at the inn, big fires were lighted and our own and the coolies' clothes were dried, I gave the coolies a good dinner and had samshu dealt out all round, after which the promise of an extra 200 cash to each man induced them to resume their loads. Mr. Tong's boy had some relations at a place called Ni-ma-pu at a distance of 10 li from Tung Yuan. We left at 4 p.m. and reached Ni-ma-pu at 5 p.m. In the farm-house to which we were conducted we found comfortable quarters. For dinner we had a room cleaned out and at night, declining to sleep in the room, we had our beds spread in the hall. Straw and leaves were laid on the floor, and by closing all the apertures of the doors as far as possible, we were enabled to enjoy a good night's rest.

Before sitting down to dinner, a scholar living on the premises sent word that he would be glad to receive a visit from us and we complied with his request. After dinner our visit was to be returned, but we begged to be excused as we were very tired and wanted to sleep. Whilst our beds were being prepared, all the inmates o? the house assembled, and it was not easy to persuade them to retire. The scholar too put in an appearance and wegave him an invitation to breakfast next morning which he accepted.

Walked this day 6 hours.

10th November. All signs of rain having disappeared, and the roads having been fairly dried by the high wind during the night, we were able to resume our journey in the direction of Tai-yang-chiao in continuation of our route. After breakfast,at which the scholar joined us, we left Ni-ma-pu at 8 a.m., reached Tai-yang-chiao at 9.30 a.m. and the temple at the foot of the gorge leading to Tien-chih at 10 a.m. The ascent to Tien-chih is very severe, and as we had to come back the following day-no other way leading from Huang Lung to Kiukiang-we had our baggage divided, only taking with us our provisions, bedding, warm clothes and such articles as were absolutely necessary for the next 24 hours. The chairs and the remainder of our luggage were left at the temple in charge of a coolie and a jolly old priest.

We engaged a guide and started at 11 for Tien Chih. From the temple to the top of the mountain, the road leads all along the edge of the gorge over stone steps. Near the temple a shrine is built of rough stones and at the top of the gorge stands a pal-low built of granite blocks, an inscription on immense rocks near by announcing that it was erected in the 12th year of Kang Hsi (1674). A waterfall rushes down the gorge, and in many places the water is easily approachable. There are numerous inscriptions on the rocks. The views from the path are fine, and Kiukiang can be seen in the distance. On the plateau of the mountain is Tien Chih, a Pagoda and temple, both now in ruins, though, judging from the latter, both structures must have been very fine in former days.

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   A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills

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