On the 6th November, 1887, Mr. Tong, of the Chinese Merchants' Company, and myself started on a tour to the Lushan. Mr. Tong was accompanied by a chair with 2 bearers, a coolie for his luggage and his servant. I brought a cook, who also acted as general servant and had a chair and 2 bearers. Four coolies carried my bedding, wearing apparel, the provisions and the coal. -- Our plan was sketched out as follows:
1st Day. From Kiukiang to Wu-chan-li; to spend the night there or at the village on the other side of the mountain.
2nd Day. White Deer Grotto. (Night.)
3rd Day. Wan Shan temple. Hsin Tung-szu, Huang-yai Pagoda and Waterfall. Stop at Kuei Tsung.
4th Day. Iron Pagoda on cliff near Kuei Tsung and on to Tung Y uan.
5th Day. To Sai Yang-chiao, to Tien-chih Pagoda and on to Kuang Lung.
6th Day. Return to Kiukiang via Tai-ping Kung.
With a few alight modifications this plan was carried out and the following is the record of our journey.
Left the Custom House at 9.50, arriving at Shih-li-pu at 11, and the 'Mandarins Graves' (that of the Philosopher Chu-fu-tz) at 11.45 a.m., where we tiffined, and resuming our journey at 0.45 p.m. visited the Ancestral Hall and reached Wu-chan-liu at 2.30. Here a beautiful view of the Po-yang Lake is obtained. Looking towards Kiu-kiang we saw the S.S. Kiang-foo leave the wharf. Although the Wa-chang-liu had been settled upon as the place of our first night's rest, we continued our road, deciding to put up at a temple a couple of hours' journey on the road to Pai-ho-lung. The first part of the descent from Wu-chan-liu is very stiff, the road being out out of the rocks and the abyss very deep; at the most dangerous places a stone parapet borders the road. At the foot of the hill lies the prettily-situated village of Chu-yi-chiao. A good road leads to Shih-kang and on to Kuang Ti-miao. On the right the Lushan rises to a considerable height and on the left one gets beautiful glimpses of the Po-yang Lake and of the 'Great Orphan.' Arrived at Kuang-ti-miao at 5.15 p.m. Fine weather all day. Mr. Tong used his chair for half an hour. In the villages the houses are solidly built and present a nice appearance. From Chu-yi-chiao the road makes a gradual ascent and the country is exceedingly pretty. Considerable traffic was noticeable on the road, the loads being carried in baskets or wrapped up in cloth.
To give our servants time to prepare our dinner and beds, we took a walk to the shore of the Lake, a distance of about ? li from the temple.
Walked this day 5? hours.
Whilst at dinner, the neighbours of the temple came to see us and evidently much enjoyed watching our proceedings. Nearing Kuan-ti-miao, we saw numerous water wheels for the working of which a mountain rivulet is utilized. Beside each wheel is a hut, and on enquiry we were informed that the manufacture of joss stick powder formed an important industry of the district and the water wheels were used to crush the wood for this purpose inside the huts. This powder is sent by junk to Wuhu and Chin-kiang and realizes a few hundred cash a picul.
7th November. Leaving $wan-ti-miao at 7-20 a.m., we arrived at Tai Lo Tung at 10-10 a.m. The road in some places is very rugged, but for the greater part it is good. Beautiful country, especially when entering the valley at the end of which Pai Lo Tung is situated. Pai Lo Tung is a large College, the buildings connected with which cover a large area. During the summer 200 or more students pursue their studies there, but during the autumn and winter the majority return to their homes. We were told that at present 70 scholars are residing at the College. Mr. Tong had a letter for the principal, which we sent in with our cards, but we were informed that gentleman was at present living in Nan-kang-fu. We asked to be shown some place where we could put up, as it was our intention to remain at Pai Lo Tung until the following morning. A crowd of people carne round us and showed us into some dirty dilapidated rooms with broken door and windows. We expressed a wish for something better and were allowed to look about for ourselves. With the crowd still at our heels, we came upon a large room utterly destitute of furniture and even of windows, and asked if we might avail ourselves of that. We were refused on the ground of its being the room which is occupied by the prineipal when in residence. Finding the people so unfriendly and very troublesome, we decided to continue our journey, with a mere halt for tiffin. Pai Lo Tung itself offers no features of special interest, the beauty of the place consisting in the lovely scenery all round.
A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills - 2
A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills - 3
A trip from Kiukiang to the Lushan Hills - 4
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